Table of Contents
Welcome to this new route through the essential things to see in the Black Perigord in the Dordogne. In this article I am going to try to explain our entire family adventure through the Dordogne Perigord Noir in France, showing you in this way an ideal route through the Black Perigord, which we have fallen in love with.
We just returned from this historic French apartment and the Dordogne Perigord with children and family or whatever it never fails. I can only tell you about wonders. It is our second visit to the Dordogne Perigord and we continue to fall in love with it and want to visit even more. A route that we have enjoyed very much and that you can also complement us with a route through the Lot in France, a neighboring apartment is also beautiful.
There is no small town or corner that does not have charm, monument, castle or surprising cave!
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About us
We are the kucavana familyWe travel with our two children and our adopted dog, Max. We usually travel in our campervan, Kucavana, hence the name of our blog (as a baby, Anna couldn't pronounce "campervan" and said "Kucavana"). But we also enjoy traveling by bicycle, by plane, and backpacking—the point is to have adventures as a family. The one writing this is me, Pilar, the mom of the family and perhaps the craziest one. I enjoy every family learning experience and I hope to help you enjoy it as much as we do. We do it by traveling.
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The Dordogne Perigord: what it is and about the mess of its names
After days for our route through the Lot in a motorhome, we finally arrived at night at the Dordogne Perigord, our destination on this new trip and route that will begin the next day and that in total will be a 7-day Dordogne Perigord route.
In reality, the administrative name and on the papers of the french department What will we visit on this route? It's just Dordogne, although as a tourist destination they use the Dordogne Perigord brand and name, thus rescuing the ancient and historical name from this area: Perigord.
In case you don't know, in France they are organized territorially into Regions and Departments. The Regions are equivalent to our Autonomous Communities and the Departments are equivalent to our provinces. In France there are 18 regions and 96 departments, plus 5 that are located overseas.
The Dordogne department is located in the region of New Aquitaine y It is the third largest department in extension of France.
Within its borders They cover what was previously the old province history of Périgord. Hence we commonly call this department Dordogne Périgord, but not because it is called that administratively today, but to remember its historical province of Perigord.
The Dordogne Perigord areas and the mess of their nomenclatures
Its 7 zones that currently is usually divide The Department of the Dordogne, areas that are divided around the largest population centers in the Dordogne. You can see them on the map above.
Now, if we talk about the old department history of the Perigord, which has already disappeared, but which today is practically all of the Dordogne, it hurts to talk from another classification that you can see on the map below. 4 zones calls: the Black Perigord, red, white and green.
Let's go mess, because in different blogs and websites you will hear about destinations with different names, but referring to the same territories.
Of course, there is an area that has a historical or modern designation. It is called the same: The Black Perigord. Goodness!
Furthermore, the Black Perigord is the area through which we will enter our route through the Dordogne Perigord and one of the most important in terms of visits to make in this French department.
About Black Perigord
The Black Périgord is also known as Sarladais. emerges as a emblematic natural destination in the Dordogne of France, covering the southeastern part of the current department of Dordogne and forming the eastern part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. Its epicenter and capital gravitates around the historic city of Sarlat-la-Caneda.
From a historical perspective, the Black Périgord precedes the other three subdivisions of the Périgord, establishing itself as a symbol of deep-rooted tradition and captivating landscapes.
Etymologically, the term “Black Périgord” derives from the density of its evergreen oak forests (Quercus ilex), which give the region a characteristic dark tone, and also alludes to the fertile and gloomy soil of Sarladais. Although commonly related with the black truffle.
How to get to the Dordogne Perigord
On how to get to the Dodoña Perigord you have different options.
To begin, I will explain our own experience, then I will try to explain the rest of the options to get to the Dordogne with alternative transport to your own vehicle.
Getting to the Dordogne with your own vehicle: our experience
Just as we have done in our route through the Dordogne Perigord , you can access by road to the Dordogne in your own vehicle, car, motorhome or camper van.
The roads that go from Spain to France are all very good, whether national or highways.
In our case, we leave from Barcelona to the Dordogne Perigord taking the AP 7 until the height of Narbonne, towards Carcassone, where we take another highway A62 to Toulouse and from there again we will continue straight up until we reach the Dordogne. If you have never visited Carcassonne, Here you have a first obligatory stop on the route.
We come to the Dordogne for its south central-west gate, the area called the Black Perigord, with the first stop in Le Bugue, a beautiful town on the banks of the Vézère River, close to Bergerac and Sarlat, one of the 3 largest towns in the Dordogne.
The highway is very good all the way and they are almost 6 hours of driving from Barcelona, but they are done very well even in a single day.
Our cost of going in our vehicle from Barcelona to the Dordogne and back has been : 450 € uros
How to get to the Dordogne Perigord by plane and how to get around there: Dordogne Perigord airports and transport
Near the Dordogne there are two airports where you can go and from there rent a car to reach the Dordogne or if you prefer ir by train then to the Dordogne and move along the Dordogne by local buses, where there is a good network to get around.
The Perigord Dordogne airports The main access are these two:
- The airport Bordeaux
- The airport Toulouse-Blagnac.
Summary of our trip through the Dordogne Black Perigord
Next, before moving forward, in the explanation of our route, itinerary and visits made, in addition to the things you can do and what to see in the Dordogne Perigord, I will quickly summarize what our experience and recent trip to Black Perigord has been.
I tell you how many days we have been, what dates, which has been our audiovisual and expenses for the four of us in the family and finally I am going to try to summarize what has been the best and the worst of our route and trip to the Dodoña, so that you have clues about what to prioritize or avoid on your trip to Perigord.
Days of our route through the Dordogne Black Perigord
Our route has been 7 days through the Black Perigord, the southernmost eastern area of the Dordogne. In these 7 days of the route, we used one to go and the other to return to Barcelona, where we left.
When have we made the trip to the Black Perigord?
Our trip through the Dordogne has been during the Holy Week, at the end of March and beginning of April, in spring.
If you are wondering how much a 7-day trip through the Dordogne Perigord costs, I will detail our expenses below. for 4 people We are, 2 adults and 2 children:
Travel costs
- Gasoline + tolls: 450 €uros, going and returning from Barcelona
- Tickets and activities: €580
- Hospitality and other purchases in supermarkets: €480
In total: Approximately €1500, €250 per head.
Here would be missing accommodation Let everyone choose, on average for a family of 4 you can spend between 60 to 200 euros per night.
The best and worst of our trip to the Dordogne Perigord
To finish with the summary of our route through the Dordogne Perigord, we like to try to summarize What has been the best and what has been the worst From the trip.
It's something we like to do on the way back from our routes, while driving home. A way to close the trip and finish reliving it.
We talk among the 4 of the family and take stock of the trip, highlighting what we liked the most and the worst in the opinion of each one.
So, think that this is the result of a humble opinion of a traveling family, nothing that has great rigor, more than the opinion of what we have experienced. Think that maybe you can experience something else when you go and your opinion may be different.
The best of the Dordogne Perigord on our route
- The entire Vézére Valley. For its attractive landscape of cliffs with wonderful rock shelters, its leisure offer (theme parks, greenway, canoe descents on the Vézére...) and its incredible prehistoric heritage.
- Les Eyzies, the so-called world capital of prehistory, where the Cro-Magnon man was discovered and where there is an incredible museum.
- The Black Perigord greenway that crosses Le Pays de Fenelón from Sarlat.
- The magret de canard they make, the foie and the black truffa in the pasta.
- Canoe down the Vézére River, calm and full of rock shelters and beautiful castles.
- The cliff towns of the Dordogne Valley, classified as the most beautiful in France, and with good reason.
- Castelnaud castle and its views over the Dordogne valley.
- The Eyrignac gardens with their plant sculptures of animals.
- Sarlat la Caneda, beautiful medieval town!
The worst of the Dordogne Perigord on our trip
- Narrow roads, usually without lines in the middle.
- Restoration prices.
- The tolls of France.
- Before the Easter Monday weekend, many places are closed.
- That the trip was over so quickly!
Route through the Perigord by car, motorhome or camper through the 15 essential plans
We now leave the summary of our route through Perigord France and go into detail of what to see in the Périgord Noir, which is above all the destination that we will visit the most on our route, and the rest of the Dordogne Perigord especially on his part also from the Dordogne Valley.
Based on our 7-day experience of our last trip through the Dordogne Perigord and a previous trip we made 10 years ago, we propose here a route through the best of this historic department of France, the Perigord, currently called Dordogne.
A route through the 15 essential plans what to see in Perigord by car, motorhome or whatever on your route.
Video summary of our route through the 15 essential things to see in Perigord
Perigord Noir what to see: A route through 3 stages
The route that we will begin to describe below through the Black Perigord Dordogne, happens through 3 different stages:
- Stage 1: The Vezère Valley, capital of the Prehistory of the world.
- Stage 2: The Pays de Fenelón, the greenest and most authentic Black Perigord.
- Stage 3: Dordogne River Valley, heart-stopping towns and one of the most visited in all of France.
Stage 1: The Vezère Valley, capital valley of the world's prehistory
We enter the first stage of our route and journey through the Dordogne, a first stage that begins in the Vézère Valley, located in the Dordogne region in France, Black Perigord, in its northernmost area. A valley famous for its exceptional prehistoric heritage. The Vezère Valley is home to numerous archaeological sites and caves with impressive rock paintingshighlighting Lascaux, UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This valley combines spectacular natural landscapes with a rich human history, spanning from the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages. Here we explore picturesque villages, medieval castles and enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking and canoeing on the Vézère River, surrounded by a natural environment of great beauty that will surely not leave you indifferent either.
1st stop: Le Bugue
We begin our route at one of the best entrances to the Dordogne: we enter through the northern Périgord Noir.
Le Bugue It is a charming town of the essentials of the Perigord Noir what to see. A town that captivates with its picturesque atmosphere, its many family leisure attractions and its rich history.
Nested in the Vézère river valley, this destination is a gem for lovers of nature, history and family leisure.
With its cozy atmosphere, its lush landscape and its cultural heritage, Le Bugue is the essential start of our route through the Perigord Noir to see.
Le Bugue Dordogne what to see and do
At Le Bugue, we have been able to enjoy multiple visits and activities that we believe are worth it as one of the Perigord Noir points to see. I am going to try to summarize here what you can do and what we liked most about what to see in Le Bugue, within the Black Perigord.
Visit its charming old town
Its cobbled streets invite you to walk among stone houses with red tiles, while its weekly market Tuesday mornings offers fresh local products and crafts.
The first thing you definitely shouldn't miss is taking a leisurely stroll through the streets of Bugue.
Visit Bournat Farm Park
On our route through the black Perigord, this visit was a must. Through the story they wrote on our blog from the trip to Perigord in motorhomea From some good friends of ours we discovered this place to see in the Perigord Noir and it was one of the places that caught our attention the most to visit with the children.
It is a theme park that represents life in the Black Perigord in the year 1900, reproducing the life of this beautiful region at that time with actors, buildings of the period, workshops and much more that the whole family will love.
Finding yourself after getting lost in the Prehistoric Labyrinth or exploring the Big Bird aerial circuit in Univerland
At first glance this activity caught our attention. The place is ideal to meet the Cro-Magnon man in his real life, in a 1000m2 environment going through a labyrinth of riddles and adventure. But the truth is that when we saw that they only spoke French, English and Dutch, we backed away and we couldn't tell you about the activity, since we didn't do it.
Go to the Perigord Noir Aquarium
Le Bugue has one of the largest private freshwater aquariums in Europe with more than 70 aquariums and more than 6000 animals. Our visit here was ideal with the children for an afternoon.
Hiking
From Le Bugue there are two hiking routes that can be done to get to know the natural environment of Le Bugue:
- The circular route called Boucle du Cingles 14 km and of high difficulty.
- The circular route called Boucle des Cabannes 8,5 km and moderate difficulty.
Take a route along the Vezère River by canoe
From Le Bugue you can hire canoes and take a canoe route along the Vèzere River, a very calm river and ideal for descending with the family.
Campsites in Le Bugue
In Le Bugue there are two main campsites where you can stay if you are looking for camping in the Black Perigord:
Camping Le Rocher de la Granelle
Open from early May to mid-September. It is a good campsite on the banks of the Vézère, very cozy, with a very nice swimming pool including a small heated pool from mid-May to mid-September and a nice playground for children. It has renovated toilets and shaded plots, some facing the Vézère. A big advantage it has is that there are shops within walking distance, a Lidl and an Intermarché (less than 10 minutes). On the other hand, if you go with children there is entertainment and a kids' club, which is a plus.
Camping les Trois Caupain
Opening of the campsite from April 1 to October 30. It has 3 swimming pools with one that is covered and heated to 28° all season.
The campsite is located 900 meters from the city center and very close to supermarkets. Furthermore, the interesting thing is that it is 500m from Bournat Park, the Aquarium and the Prehistoric Labyrinth among others.
If you go to Le Bugue by motorhome
In a motorhome, apart from being able to go to the campsites, you have a Le Bugue municipal motorhome area, with moderate payment, in a green area next to the Vézère River, with minimal services and very central. Parking is allowed for a maximum of 72 hours. The only thing to keep in mind is that from November to April they usually close the water due to possible frost.
2nd stop: Visit to the depths of the Proumeyssac cave with basket
A classic visit to see in the black Perigord is to descend into the depths of the Proumeyssac cave, the call Crystal Cathedral.
One of the largest caves in the Dordogne located 50 meters deep, discovered in 1907 and with the largest number of stalactite and stalagmite formations in the area.
We couldn't miss it so we visited this cave and enjoyed its 14 degrees underground. Something why we decided to go visit Proumeyssac was because there is a formula for visiting the cave that is different from many other caves.
Apart from having a light and sound show during the visit, common in other caves, in Proumeyssac there is a 360º visit with a descent into the cave in a basket as it was done in the old days.
The first visitors to the cave, through a basket powered by a horse, could descend and visit this cave and this is what is intended to be recreated.
Now, the basket does not work with a horse, but it works with a technical system that rotates 360 degrees.
A brutal experience! Of course, if you want this visit in a basket, book in advance, otherwise you will have to do the traditional one on foot.
Something also to keep in mind, if you go outside of the high season in summer, is that the cave is closed from 12:00 to 14:00 p.m. and the last visit is at 17:XNUMX p.m.
Parking at the Gouffre de Proumeyssac
To park at the Gouffre de Proumeyssac, has a wide car park right in front you won't have a problem.
Sleep near the Chasm of Proumeyssac
To sleep we recommend a campsite that is on a nearby farm called Ferme de la Brauge in Tursac or if you go by motorhome and prefer a motorhome area the Eyzies area or Le Bugue.
3rd stop: Les Eyzies: National Museum of Prehistory and green route through impressive landscapes
The old Les Eyzies brag about two landscaped cliffs from where you can appreciate the beauty of this charming town
The most prominent is located in the heart of the town, in front of the Town Hall Square. There is also the National Museum of Prehistory, the old castle and the Neanderthal statue.
The second cliff, of a grayer tone, can be seen when leaving Les Eyzies towards Périgueux. It is home to three major Dordogne tourist attractions: the Grand Roc cave, the Laugerie Basse refuge and the Tayac troglodyte fort (currently closed to visitors).
The Dordogne Perigord region is full of cliffside villages, all captured and shared on Instagram, but none as impressive as this one! Don't forget to walk around and enjoy some of the hiking routes that Les Eyziers has.
World Capital of Prehistory what to see in Perigord
Les Eyzies, in the Périgord Noir, very close to Le Burgue, it is presented to the tourist first of all as the world capital of prehistory, that already says a lot about this beautiful town.
And is that here Cro-Magnon man was discovered in the Cromagnon Refuge and here we find world wonders of prehistoric art in caves such as Font-de-Gaume, the refuges of Laugerie haute and Laugerie basse, listed as National Monuments and protected in the Unesco World Heritage.
Furthermore, it is in Les Eyzies where we find the National Museum of Prehistory, a reference on the Upper Paleolithic with rich collections from the Vézere Valley area where we are located.
Something that also attracts attention and that you should visit within the National Museum of Prehistory, in Les Eyziers, is its giant statue of the Prehistoric Man by Paul Dardé, the Cro-Magnon statue that they call it, although it actually represents Neanderthal man.
Cycling on the Vézère Valley greenway, an essential thing to do in Perigord
The greenway passes through Le Bugue, still in the process of being expanded. Vézère Valley, a velor route that follows the course of the Vézère River and that partly uses existing rural roads, although some sections have been fixed and enabled as a safe greenway without sharing with other vehicles.
Currently the route connects 4 villages of the Vézère Valley on a tour of about 20 kilometers through the towns of Les Eyzies, Le Bugue, Limeuil and Saint-Chamassy.
If you do not have bicycles and you have to rent There is bike rental at the tourist office 24 hours a day, 7 days a week in Le Bugue and in Les Eyzies, in Le Bugue they only rent electric bikes.
The greenway is accessible to pedestrians and cyclists. What you should know is that at the moment it combines safe enabled sections and others that are already existing rural roads, that in some cases cars circulate, although few, which you should take into consideration.
If you search alone sections that are NOT shared with cars There is currently a section, which is the one we did, ideal and safe of 15 km, 30 there and back, which is the one that goes from Les Eyzies to Le Bugue. Highly highly recommended.
If you decide to do the complete route, you have to know that the The rest of the sections will be shared with cars on rural roads.
You have here the tracks and information of the two current main finished sections of the Vézere Greenway here:
Other cycling routes that you have sports are the following:
Traveling the circular route: Campagne, Peyrat, Saint Chamassy, Audrix, Peyrat, Campagne
19,50km you can stop to visit the depths of Proumeyssac, but this route, already shared in sections by cars, is only for adults.
4th stop: Commarque Castle
The imposing Commarque Castle stands majestically above the Beune Valley, between Les Eyzies and Sarlat, in an enclave known as Sireuil. Its construction, which dates back to the 12th and 14th centuries, contains a unique and fascinating history as a co-manor, the vestiges of which still survive today.
The De Commarque family, currently owners of the castle, offers guided tours and workshops during the summer season. Recently, the hidden cave beneath this fortress has been opened to the public, and the walls of the keep can be explored by rappelling, descending more than 40 meters. Only those of intrepid spirit will venture into this activity.
For those who prefer a quieter experience, the traditional visit and the activities available on site are reason enough to make a stop and fully enjoy the charm of Commarque.
At Easter, just when we went, they do an Easter egg hunt activity that the kids loved. A castle that is definitely worth a visit. Of course, the road to get there is very narrow, so be careful and try to arrive at night or first thing in the morning to avoid encountering cars facing you.
Sleep after visiting Commarque Castle
To sleep we recommend a campsite that is on a nearby farm called Ferme de la Brauge in Tursac or if you go by motorhome and prefer a motorhome area the Eyzies area
5th stop: Sail along the Vézèrre in Saint Léon sur-Vézère, one of the most beautiful villages in France
After our visit to Les Eyziers, we followed the route through the Vézère River Valley until we reached one of the towns classified as one of the most beautiful in France. Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère is located in the domain of the Côte de Jor, has the charm and authenticity typical of the medieval villages of Périgord Noir to see, with its warm blonde stones, its roofs and its labyrinth of its couredoux (narrow streets) and the presence of the Vézère river dominating its landscapes.
Canoeing (or rafting) down the Vezère
This town is one of the best for make a descent down the Vézère river since it has an ideal canoe base called APA Canoe.
From here they took us in a van and unloaded to make the descent and reach the canoe base again.
The itinerary of canoe descent is usually 12 km – 3 hours, between Thonac and Tursac called the itinerary “Between castles and troglodyte fortresses”, but the route can be adapted when you call them. They speak a little Spanish, so don't worry.
At the nautical base they have car park where you can park without problem.
In our case we did the descent with guided rafting boats since it had rained a lot and for safety reasons it was better than the canoe, although we assure you that the river is a very calm raft.
Le Conquil, troglodyte village to see in Perigord Noir
In Saint León we can also discover and visit on the banks of the river an ancient habitat of prehistoric man sheltered by the rocks as a place of refuge where, through guided or self-guided tours with an audio guide in French or English, you can learn about the history of this troglodyte place.
Furthermore, in Le Conquil, you will also find a small theme park for the little ones with dinosaurs and games.
Where to sleep in Saint-León-sur Vézère camping or motorhome area
In Saint-León-sur-Vézère there is a great municipal campsite at a good price next to the river and with all the services.
And if you go with a motorhome there is a motorhome areapayment that is also municipal and is great.
6th stop: Visit to the Montignac Lascaux International Center for Parietal Art, a must-see in Perigord
Among the prehistoric sites inscribed on the list of UNESCO World Heritage in the Vézère valley, highlights the Lascaux cave with its rock paintings, authentic masterpieces of prehistoric art.
Discovered in 1940 by Marcel Ravidat, his dog Robot and three friends, it was open to the public between 1948 and 1963, then closed due to climatic imbalances caused by visitors' breathing. In 1983 a partial replica, Lascaux II, was inaugurated 200 meters from the original cave. Later, a traveling exhibition, Lascaux III, presented facsimiles of complementary scenes. And finally today we find Lascaux IV, the result of a 2012 architectural competition, gives life to a rock art center that merges exhibition rooms and a complete recreation of the accessible part of the original cave.
El International Center of Rock Art where Lascaux IV is located, invites you to immerse yourself in fantasy, imagination and follow in the footsteps of our ancestors. Special attention has been paid to temperature (13°C), humidity and lighting to recreate the original atmosphere, a faithful reproduction of the original
This center is unique in France and the world for its prehistoric art, they call it the Sistine Chapel of the caves! It's like the Eiffel Tower in Paris, if you go to Perigord it is one of the essential things to see in the Dordogne!
Before you go remember book the visit of Lascaux IV since there are special visits for example for children and visits in Spanish.
Where to park to visit Lascaux
The International Rock Art Center has a great car park of visitors where you can park without problem during the day, at night it is prohibited. In that parking lot there is one enabled only for motorhomes. It is a daytime only car park and overnight stays are prohibited, but to visit Lascaux and Montignac it is ideal as a daytime stopover base.
Where to sleep in Montignac in a motorhome
To spend the night in Montignac near Lascaux IV we recommend the Montignac motorhome area:
Zone of Montignac municipal paid motorhomes, very close to the historic center.
Stage 2 of the route through the Black Perigord: Pays de Fenelón
The Pays de Fénelon is an area rich in historical, cultural and natural heritage of the Black Perigord Dordogne. This territory is named after the famous archbishop and writer François de Salignac de La Mothe-Fénelon, whose influence is felt in the region.
The area is dotted with charming medieval villages, such as Carlux and Salignac-Eyvigues, with cobbled streets, castles and stone buildings. The imposing castle of Fénelon, located on the top of a hill, is a good example.
The Pays de Fénelon is also a paradise for nature lovers, with numerous hiking trails and cycling routes as we will enjoy.
Stop 7: Visit to Coly-Saint Amand
From Montignac, we continue our route to now visit two beautiful little towns that you cannot miss on your trip to the Dordogne Perigord, now entering this second stage of our route through the Black Perigord Dordogne.
Classified among the “most beautiful villages in France”, Saint-Amand-de-Coly It is characterized by the imposing stone silhouette of its abbey, which we can visit parking at the entrance of the town. Considered the most beautiful fortified church in Périgord What to see, this Romanesque abbey is a fantastic witness to the region's tormented past.
Stop 8: Saint-Geniès, one of the most beautiful towns to see in Perigord
On the other hand, less than 15 minutes from Saint-Amand, away from the main communication routes, we will go to park in the car park, where the town's motorhome area is also located, to visit the town of Saint Genies. A town that has known how to preserve its ocher colored houses with slate roofs, as well as its castle from the 13th century and a beautiful church typical of the country from the 12th century.
Stop 9: The gardens of the Eyrignac manor in Salignac Eyvigues
Between Montignac and Sarlat, we find the gardens of the Manoir d'Eyrignac, classified as “Notable Gardens” and “Historical Monuments of the 17th and 18th Centuries”, in the middle of the Pays de Fenelon.
Here we are among the most beautiful gardens in Périgord with a unique collection of plant sculptures. Where you can book a guided tour in Spanish or visit them on your own.
The gardens have a large parkingg where if you go in a motorhome you can sleep right there, it is allowed without always camping. A place that we loved to spend the night full of nature and tranquility.
Stop 10: Via Verde Sarlat – Cazoulès
On our visit to the Pays de Fenelon, we couldn't miss cycling along the green route that runs through this territory. The Black Perigord greenway crosses most of the territory of the Pays de Fenelón.
In our case we parked in Sarlat, the last or first point of this famous and beautiful green route depending on your preference.
So as family bicycle lovers, we can't help but go pedaling for a piece of the Sarlat – Cazaoulès greenway, very easy 25 km veloruta which runs along a railway route through the Perigord where we can discover the beauty of the black Perigord landscape.
our departure of this greenway is in the Madrazès roundabout parking, in Sarlat, in the direction of Peyrillac-et-Millac.
Stop 11: La Gare de Robert Doisneau
From there Sarlat and the parking lot that we mentioned in the previous point, we took the greenway and in our case we took the part to the Gare de Robert Doisneau, one of the old train stations which today with the greenway has become a tourist information point with a museum exhibition on Robert Doisneau, a famous french photographer from the interwar era.
It is a free exhibition museum that is worth seeing to enjoy its photography.
Going there and back from Sarlat by bicycle along the Black Perigord greenway was almost 40 km that we pedaled with great pleasure among beautiful landscapes of green beech forests, charming villages and along the banks of the Dordogne River in some sections.
Stage 3: The Dordogne River Valley
The Dordogne River Valley, within the Dordogne department in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, is one of the most picturesque and culturally rich destinations in France and the Black Perigord Department of Dordogne.
This valley is known for its stunning landscape of green hills, vineyards, and majestic cliffs along the meandering Dordogne River. Here you will find numerous villages classified among the "most beautiful in France", such as La Roque-Gageac and Beynac-et-Cazenac, each with its medieval charm and traditional architecture.
The valley is dotted with historic castles, such as Château de Beynac and Château de Castelnaud that offer a glimpse into the region's feudal past. Furthermore, the Dordogne Valley is famous for its gastronomy, especially foie gras, truffles and local wines. Outdoor activities such as canoeing, hiking and cycling are popular, allowing visitors to fully enjoy the natural environment and its spectacular views. The Dordogne Valley combines history, culture and nature in a harmonious way, making it an essential destination in France.
Stop 12: Sarlat La Caneda, the medieval jewel of the Dordogne to see in Perigord
Located in the heart of the Dordogne region, Sarlat-la-Canéda is much more than just a tourist destination, apart from the capital of the Black Perigord What to see as essential on your route. It is a living testimony of the historical and cultural wealth of France and the Dordogne. With its cobbled streets, perfectly preserved medieval architecture and charming atmosphere, this city captivates visitors with its timeless elegance.
Sarlat is one of the most beautiful medieval ensembles in Europe. Protected by modernism by the Malraux law, Sarlat has preserved the painting of its streets and the beauty of its monuments. The city has the record density of historical monuments classified or included in the national inventory with 65 protected monuments and buildings.
Gastronomy, the extra key
But Sarlat is not only an open-air museum. It is also a gastronomic paradise where we discover the best of the gastronomy of the Dordogne Perigord. Its colorful and bustling markets offer a wide variety of local products, from black truffles to foie gras, delighting the most demanding palates. Traditional restaurants, hidden in cobbled alleys, invite you to enjoy authentic Périgordian cuisine, prepared with the freshest and tastiest ingredients.
In addition to its exquisite culinary offering, Sarlat is famous for its annual film festival, which attracts film buffs from around the world to enjoy a selection of films in a truly unique setting.
In summary, Sarlat-la-Canéda is a joyIt perfectly combines history, culture and gastronomy, offering an unforgettable experience for all who have the privilege of visiting it.
Where to eat in Sarlat la Caneda
We don't usually recommend restaurants, but the restaurant “LA COULEUVRINE” of Sarlat deserves a mention. If you want to taste authentic Perigord food, this is one of the ones we liked the most on our route.
Where to sleep in Sarlat La Caneda
To sleep in Sarlat we recommend the Camping Huttopia Sarlat or the pay motorhome area from Sarlat la Caneda.
Stop 13: La Roque Gageac Perigord must and the third most visited town in France
Descend the Dordogne River on a barge at La Roque-Gageac It is one of the essentials on a route through the Black Perigord Dordogne, so we could not miss it on our route through the Black Perigord.
Apart from visiting this beautiful town, we went aboard a replica of an 18th century ship, a barge. These guided walks cover ten centuries of history of the Dordogne Valley: the Middle Ages, the life of the boatmen, the migratory fish of the river, the ecosystem, the local fauna and flora.
In our case we did it with Gabaras Norbert They had an audio guide in Spanish and even in Catalan! In fact, the captain of the ship was a Catalan.
To park and spend the night there is a motorhome area in Roque Gageac, so your visit is ideal and easy if you go in a motorhome or camper.
To sleep in a campsite you have the Camping “la plage” fence in Vézac
Stop 14: Beynac-et-Cazenac, another of the most beautiful towns in France
Just 10 minutes from La Roque Gageac we were able to visit another of the most beautiful towns in France.
Beynac et Ccazenac is beautiful and its castle at the top makes it even more special.
Stop 15: Visit of Castelnaud Castle what to see in Perigord as the last stop
Classified as a Historical Monument, this feudal fortress, which is the Castelnaud Castle, It offers a magnificent panorama of the Dordogne valley, so without a doubt this was going to be the icing on the cake as the last stop in the Black Perigord Dordogne on our route.
This castle houses the Museum of War in the Middle Ages. A collection of weapons and armor, life-size reproductions of war machines (mangonel, trebuchet, couillard, spierre, parapet) that allow you to discover the art of war in the Middle Ages and some aspects of the life of the lords of Castelnaud with the medieval-inspired garden and furnished dungeons.
An essential without a doubt on a route through the Dordogne Valley and through the Black Perigord on a route.
And here, with beautiful breathtaking views from Castelnaud Castle, our route through the Black Perigord and the French Dordogne ends.
A great trip and destination that we are sure will capture your hearts as much as it does us. When you go, tell us in the comments and share your experience and advice with other travelers here.
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