At this moment you are seeing Getaway to Vallespir (France), northern Catalonia: Gorges de la Fou, Prats de Molló and ascent to the peak of Costabona des de la Preste

Getaway to Vallespir (France), northern Catalonia: Gorges de la Fou, Prats de Molló and ascent to the peak of the Costabona des de la Preste

 

 
 

SUMMARY OF THE GETAWAY TO VALLESPIR

 
El Vallespir, lands close to Catalonia where its people speak Catalan with a French accent, will undoubtedly surprise you on this getaway.
 
    • Days: 3 days, from Friday afternoon to Sunday
    • Dates we have made the getaway to Vallespir: From August 17 to 19, 2018
    • Towns visited on the route through the Vallespir: Cantallops to Arles sur Tech- Gorges de la Fou to Prats de Molló to La Preste Bains
    • Places to spend the night: AC area of ​​Restaurant Can Pau de Cantallops -> Parking for AC in Preste-Les Bains. All areas can be found https://www.park4night.com/
    • Total getaway expenses approx: 160 Euros calculated round trip (tolls + gasoline approx € 60 / Tickets visited places € 27 / Overnight areas € 0 / Restaurants and supers or bakeries 70)
    • Summary of visits and activities carried out on the Vallespir getaway:
      • Cantallops (1 night)
        • Can Pau restaurant dinner
        • Visit to the town
      • Arles-sur-Tech
        • Gorges de la Fou excursion
      • Prats de Mollo
        • Visit to the town
        • Visit to Lagarde Fort
        • Visit to the church and hermitage
        • Participation in the town festival
      • La Preste le bathes
        • Visit to the spa, although without being able to enjoy the baths because it is closed
        • Excursion through the natural reserve of Prats de Molló with ascent to the peak of the Costabona, passing through the Coll del Tech, the Cabaña del Pastor, the Cabaña de Piedra and the Coll del Siern.
    • The best of this getaway to Vallespir
      • Discover the AC area of ​​Cantallops and the Can Pau restaurant that offers you part of eating super well, swimming pool and a place of 10 for your AC.
      • The gorgas de la Fou, the narrowest gorgas in Europe and super well prepared for children of any age.
      • Prats de Molló, a beautiful fortified town that surprised us with its charm.
      • The underground access tunnel to the Lagarde Fort in Prats de Molló, hard to climb but very curious to see and undertake the climb to the Fort.
      • The Preste les Bains park, a haven of peace in the middle of nature where many trails start.
      • See from the Costabona peak the Massís del Canigó, the Cap de Creus and the Pyrenees at your feet.
      • Discover the wonder of the Coll del Tech and the lost stone cabin in the valley before the Collbona ascension
    • The worst of this escape to Vallespir
      • The 2, 5 hour queue on the AP-7 motorway from Figueres to La Jonquera, by the controls of the French anti-terrorist police, who finally made us detour to Cantallops for the night.
      • The tramontana blowing in Cantallops that added to the motorhome was the same as being on a boat in a rough sea! a night of everything but placid.
      • Not having found out that the theatrical guided tour of Fort Lagarde was every day at 15:30 except Saturdays! Just the day we were going with all the enthusiasm!
      • Not having known before that the Terme de la Preste les Bains are closed on Saturdays at 14pm and on Sundays!
      • Having lost ourselves during the ascent to Collbona in an area of ​​grimpada and sandboxes, it is hard to ascend (and we have gps and a downloaded trac!)
 

TIPS FOR THIS GETAWAY TO VALLESPIR

  • General tips for this route through the Vallespir
    • Before going on a trip to cross the French border of La Junquera-El Pertús, look at the tweeter of Infoautopistas or transit or dgt, make sure there is no 18 km queue for checkpoints, it can take 4 hours to cross the border only. If you go out to La Junquera before 2 hours until you cross the border and you see Cantallops in its free and great AC area that the Can Pau restaurant maintains. Take the opportunity to pay tribute, drown the sorrows of the queues made and eat at the restaurant. It is spectacular and if it is not too late you can even take a dip in the pool and discover the Albera and Cantallops landscapes. Hopefully you won't run into the Tramontana, which is the worst there. Stay to sleep or wait until later than 01:00 in the morning (which is when the restaurant told us that the traffic begins to decongest) and before 7:XNUMX in the morning cross the border (there is no queue at this time ).
    • If you want to visit Fort Lagarde with a dramatized guided tour, it is every day in July and August at 15:30, except Saturdays!
    • If you want to bathe in the thermal waters of the spa of La Preste-Les Bains, remember that they close on Saturdays at 14pm and on Sundays.
    • The Lagarde fort in Prats de Molló closes from November to the end of March, and in mid-September and October they only open on weekends.
    • The prices of these Vallespir towns are cheap or reasonable when it comes to eating or having a drink outside, take advantage of it and remind them that you are in AC and that you thank them for the specific areas and parking lots for our motorhomes.
    • For hiking and hiking in the mountains remember to equip yourself with good footwear that does not slip, is comfortable and holds the foot well.
    • For the hiking excursions from La Preste take GPS and download the corresponding trac you want to do before going. We always look at Wikiloc.es for excursions with trac, in this case looking for La Preste as the starting point where we will go. We download the trac we want and with a garmin mountain gps watch we do the routes, it is much safer than going to the mountain with nothing.
  • Specific if you travel with children to Vallespir:
    • You can visit the Gorges de la Fou with children of any age, no problem there is a lot of security, although as always do not lose your eye. You cannot carry a cart to the gorgas, if it is a child of less than 3 years it will get tired in the 3, 5 km route, especially when climbing, it will be better if you have a mountain backpack, otherwise you will have to take it in your arms for a long time.
    • Visiting Fort Lagarde de Prats de Molló with small children under 4 years of age can be hard since there is a 20 minute climb (there are two routes, one that goes through a cool and sheltered tunnel with many steep stairs, very curious to see, or a path that is less steep but it is longer and there are parts less shaded. We went up through the underground gallery and down the path and I think it was a good choice. Either way, do not take a cart to go up or you will have to carry it by hand more child in arms too.A mountain backpack can help you or you can go up by coach from 14:30 to 15:15 only and you have to register at the Prats de Molló tourist office.
    • In Prats de Molló you have the parking for the ACs under the bridge, there you will also find swings for the little ones, they will love it, that along with a bath if it is hot in the municipal pool that has a very cool big slide.
    • The path that we recounted on Sunday to the peak of Costabona des de la Preste is not for children. What we recommend if you want to go with children on a hike through the Preste-Les Bains area is to go up to the Les Conques refuge, which you can even go in a 4 × 4 taxi. Or go up to the Coll del Tech (although for older children of 7-8 years this last excursion because there are very narrow trails with hard and boring high slopes and with cuts on the side). Also what you can do with children from La Preste is to go looking for mushrooms in its forests, they are full and they are beautiful forests. And bathing in a little piece of the Tech river is also a great option close by, in addition to the parking lot to come and go there is a great mini beach, past the J farm-camping. If you want to do the Costabona with children on the Spanish side of Setcasas from Ull del Ter there is the easy path of only 400 meters of unevenness, excellent to start the kids to do mountaineering.
  • Specific if you travel with dogs to Vallespir:
    • In the Gorges de la Fou they have gabies where you can leave your dog for free, great!
    • Many restaurants in Prats de Molló have bowls of water for dogs on the terraces, it is appreciated.
  • Specific if you travel by motorhome through the Vallespir:
    • The Gorges de la Fou parking lot in August, in principle, AC does not have preference over cars, you will see that it is crossed out, now if you go early before 10am there is no problem in parking (they have given us permission whenever we left after the visit). Go early, they open at 9 am and it is perfect because you will make the visit in peace and without crowds, you can also make a coffee for 1,20 at the entrance. If it is full or they do not let you, you can park on the road before the entrance in some parking lots that are on the sides without problem or you can go in one of the free shuttle buses that leave Arles sur Tech, Amelie les Bains and others points.
    • To access the Preste-Les Bains car park, you will go along a road that will narrow at some points and the bus passes, use caution, but rest easy since it is a road that does not have large unevenness and has many wide sections.
    • In Prats de Molló you have parking for ACs under the bridge, it has toilets, a picnic area and barbecues and if it is very hot and you fancy a bath nearby you have the municipal swimming pool and the town center 2 minutes away.
 

THE ESCAPE TO THE VALLESPIR IN DETAIL DAY BY DAY

 

 
 
Day 1 Friday at 17pm: Sant Pere de Vilamajor- Cantallops, an obligatory and improvised stop towards Vallespir

Before going to Vallespir we take a little planning of the getaway. This weekend the children are with their grandparents, one weekend a year we give it to ourselves as a getaway from Rodríguez. This year we have different options but in the end we opted for the Vallespir, an area that we do not know too much since we always go more to the north of Canigó and not the South. The planning is as follows: 
-Friday: Ceret visit 
-Saturday: either we take the free shuttle bus from Arles or in AC we go to the Gorges de la fou car park, there is a specific area for AC and we can also leave the dog for free in some gavias at the entrance. Then, we go to Prat in the afternoon from Molló to visit the town, 23 minutes away  Overnight in La Preste to leave tomorrow to do some hiking, 15 minute trip.
 
The result will be very different from what awaits us this Friday afternoon. Suddenly the GPS in Figueres warns us that there is a delay of 2 hours, then 3, then 3, 5 hours ... 18 km of traffic jam before reaching the French border of the AP-7. When we have been in the traffic for 2 hours and just before leaving the Junquera we see that the GPS tells us that there are still 3 more hours to reach Ceret, when normally it does not arrive even half an hour what would remain. It's 19:4 pm… we look at Park5night and see an area next to La Junquera with almost XNUMX stars and many positive comments and a restaurant with good reviews. We decided to take a detour and let the traffic pass, it will surely fade at night or at dawn the next day, and we want to pay tribute to that cool restaurant. I am Figuerenca by birth but I hadn't even heard of it and I want to find out, it can be recurrent with the family later.
We arrive at the area we explore and it is already 20:30 p.m., it is a great free AC area with the services of emptying and filling of super clean waters, also there is a bar, relaxation area, swimming pool, restaurant ... what a wonderful place, and us without knowing it.
 
We go to the Can Pau restaurant just in front of the area, owners of it. This renovated has a modern and elegant air that we love, they have a covered terrace where dogs are allowed to see. 
They have a menu at night of 25 Euros or letter. We do not want to eat so much and we order a starter to share, a delicious and well presented anchovy tartare, and we order a second, spectacular cod and squid. For dessert a coulant with vanilla ice cream that makes us cry with emotion lol The price of everything very reasonable for its quality (50 Euros all).
 
The owner of the restaurant recommends that we do not go out with the AC to the border yet, that until 1 in the morning the queues do not escape, that it is best to sleep and leave at 6.
We pay attention to him and we stay in the area to spend the night. That if I don't know what would have been better! What a tramontana night! As I have told you, I am from Figueres and I know it very much and I know what it is when it blows hard, but what I did not know was its combination with a motorhome…. That plus two glasses of wine that we had was like sleeping in a boat with rough waters, what a night ... we do not sleep, it was a scary movie ...
 
Day 2 Saturday: Cantallops without glancing past the Vallespir at dawn, Gorges de la Fou, Prats de Molló i la Preste-Les bains

Total that after the tramuntana night at 6h without sleep we wake up by the alarm clock in Cantallops.
We calmly pass through Ceret, Amelie les Bains i Arles sur Tech, stop to buy bread in an already open boulangerie and head straight for the les Gorges de la Fou car park. 
It's 7:15, the parking barrier is still down until 9 they don't open, we wait parked at the entrance, on the road, we have breakfast and we close our eyes a little until 9 they open.
We see that in the sign of the motorhome parking the sign is like crossed out with chains, as it is all empty we park and we are going to ask if we can or not. The boy in the parking lot tells us that there is no problem in parking, which is more because of preference, because as it fills up with cars, the AC car parks become cars if they are not occupied. But what if we leave after the visit without any problem.
We go to the ticket offices, we see a cafeteria and we have other coffees loaded (for 1, 20 € the coffee). We go to the ticket office and buy the tickets (10 E adult 5 the child over 5 years old).
 
We are the first to pass, a marvel since it allows us to visit the gorges with the only noise of the water passing by, sometimes even deafening, and take photos without people in the middle. On the way down, it will no longer be the same. It is a route of 1 hour 30 minutes and 3 km in which at the entrance a super nice guy puts some helmets on us while teaching us the couple of vultures that nest there every year and that return three years after emigrating. to Egypt in winter he explains.
Once we visited the Gorges de la Fou around 11am, we decided to go to Prats de Molló.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
We stopped in the parking lot under the Bridge, next to the river where there are other motorhomes, where there is a picnic area, barbecues and a children's play area. In 2 minutes we reached the center of the town and stopped by the tourist office to collect a map and information on the area.
Prats de Molló surprises us is a beautiful walled town with charm. There is a party, so we join in and make a vermouth before going to the kucavana and eat the tortillita and salmorejo that I had already prepared on Friday.
 

And after a pleasant nap that is appreciated with the dream dragged on Friday, we are going to visit the Fort Lagarde, 15-20 minutes walking. We go up its curious underground galleries to see, visit the fort (€ 3,5 for adult admission) and finally go down the path.

 
We make a spectacular glass of ice cream in a bar in one of the little squares of the beautiful town (€ 6,5 each glass that was huge, we couldn't even finish it!).
It is around 18pm and we decided to go to the area where we will spend the night in the Preste-Les Bains car park, where multiple trails depart from the southern part of the Pyrenees and from where our excursion will depart tomorrow.
We arrived at Preste Les Bains, and we decided to go see if we can enter the thermal baths. They tell us that they are closed on Saturday afternoons and Sundays to the public outside the hotel. We were left with the win, a pity!
So we walked for a while along the path that tomorrow we will start towards the Costabona peak and then we decided to take refuge in the Kucavana to write this story and watch a movie while we had dinner and then to rest.
 
 
Day 3 Sunday: La Preste, ascension to the peak of the Costabona, 20 km with 1500 meters of elevation not suitable for children or dogs
We have mountain, hiking and climbing gains ... it shows. Today without children or dogs will be a great day.
 Our initial idea is to make the piece that we can of the circular route that leads to Costabona and that we have downloaded its trac from wikiloc. We did not want to do the peak much as it is well marked it is 9 hours to go and return.
But as always we end up improvising and what comes out hehehe In our house we never get bored!
At 9:30 we get out of the car and make our way to the Coll del Tech, we pass by the farm that sells goat cheese and they have a small campsite and we always walk near the Tech river.
The path is uphill uphill, it goes through different forests. With each effort made of hard climb we find a great reward, totally different landscapes from the previous one.
 
 

And so we go through different forests until we reach the Coll del Tech, impressive, a magical place, where there is also no soul, incredible, almost virgin. If it weren't for the two shepherd's huts there are, we would say that nobody passes by. We love the place, we make a stop to eat something at mid-morning, it is already 11 o'clock.

  

Coll del Tech with the shepherd's cabin (bottom right inside photo) and stone shelter next door.

We decided to continue to the next landmark, another stone cabin in a valley before beginning the ascent to the Costabona.

The path between cows and mountains around the arts is spectacular. And when we get to the cabin the place is even more magical. This time we met a marriage there, we are not alone.
 

 

 

Cabanya de Pedra, abans de l'ascensió al Costabona

It is 12:15 pm and we see a sign that says that in 1 hour and 15 minutes you can climb to the top of the Costabona ... as we do not dare ... we have not made a peak for a long time.
We follow the trac, but it turns out that we are not convinced by where it ascends and we decided to take another more "fun" climb site, a "grimpada" - vertical climb where you can see chamois everywhere around us and some marmots, a spectacle to see them and us ... to have killed us ...
Total we got to the top and what we think was the Costabona is not! It is higher up and there are many lunch boxes and a very complicated terrain to ascend, but it is worse to go down ... total than up that we go as we can accompanied only by the mountain goats hehehe
And we stop for a moment to regain strength and eat and we continue…. the road is very hard. But… finally we are going to touch the top and again on the trac! Goodness! I do not pass our trac because it is not recommended even 1% ejjeje
 
 
We are on top! We are above the peak of the Costabona, the first great mountain above the 2000 Pyrenees by its Levante band. It is almost 2500 meters high and we have just saved 1500 meters of unevenness from our point of ascent. It is 14:30 pm we have been climbing for 5 hours.
The Costabona is one of the typical mountains easy to do from l'Ull del Ter, Setcases, which with only 400 meters of altitude makes it an easy mountain to climb with children to start mountaineering. But making it from the Preste is not so easy, in fact we have not seen a soul practically on the road.
 
The views are worth it, the Cap de Creus or the Massís del Canigó are a spectacle of contemplation at this point.
 Pic of the Costabona

 

We started the descent around 15 pm. A sign tells us that it is 3 hours until the Preste. On the way down, we see the Costabona peak all the time behind us, imposing and beautiful.

 

The descent is done through the Coll de Sierne bordering the border between Spain and France almost all the time. A hard descent, very abrupt descent that our already tired legs (we are in very poor shape, verified!) Suffer. Did you know that as a border there is a small valley like pastures? Yes, that is our border, look at the photo on the right. This path does not seem as spectacular as the one uphill, everything and that you are seeing the Collbona (which we have behind) for a long time and that is beautiful added to the Meadows full of cows.
 
We arrived at 17:30 in the motorhome! Bufff 8 hours walking we are exhausted and suddenly we see the frozen river. Nor doubt there we go and throw ourselves even with clothes! What a joy even the spa would have gone so well jeejjej! What a wonder the Vallespir.
 
A most complete day, with the feeling of overcoming and adrenaline in the air. We loved it. Although we have lived moments of tension up there in the lost lunch boxes and out of the way, grimping how and with the goats, in the end everything has turned out well and we have even made the round trip in less than 9 hours that the trail marks! What a rush right now! Hehehe
Of course this is not for children or dogs, only suitable for goats like us, goats that jump over the marked path. The Vallespir leaves anecdote.
It's 18:30 that we set off for home, we need to rest from the 20 km we just did! At 20:30 we are already in Sant Pere de Vilamajor, passing through the Coll d'Ares, a beautiful border crossing.

 

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This entry has 2 comments

  1. I am not convinced with what is written here, I sincerely think that there are many aspects that could not be considered. But I highly appreciate your exposition, it is a good article.
    regards

    1. Pilar Avila

      Good family! we will be happy to answer any questions and improve our presentation of the post 🙂 This is one of the articles we did first, when we were more new to this ... we still are 🙂 Tell us what you would add or remove to help us improve it. It is an article where we explain above all our experience in first person, but surely there is much that we could improve 🙂 We will be delighted. Thank you very much for your contribution 🙂

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